Clouds stretched out before us: boundless white sheets, soft and shining with possibility. We’ve escaped from the world and its limitations, at least for the weekend. It was February, and we flew to Puerto Rico.

Stay

Hotel Swanky Condado Vanderbilt lobby

The Condado San Juan Beach area is your most efficient route to your sun, sand and surf vacation needs. It’s a fifteen-minute taxi ride from San Juan Luis Muñoz international airport, and there are numerous beachfront hotels with great views.

Our pick is the luxurious Condado Vanderbilt Hotel, initially built in 1919. This grand dame has welcomed high-profile clients including Charles Lindberg, Bob Hope, and Presidents Franklin D. and Eleanor Roosevelt. The hotel won’t disclose the identity of the newest celebrity guest. Vanderbilt has been totally restored and offers a beautiful lobby, cigar lounge and beachfront terrace perfect for socializing over cocktails before a night on the town. Guests who choose suites receive butler service during their stay.

Condado Vanderbilt Hotel: 1055 Ashford Avenue, San Juan 00907, Puerto Rico

Eat

Orozco’s Serves Authentic and Delicious Puerto Rican Food

Authentic Puerto Rican cuisine is delicious and cheap, and you can find a fantastic selection of island staples at the very relaxed, friendly, and excellent Orozco on Ashford Avenue. Mofongo is a conventional Puerto Rican delicacy made of mashed bananas and garlic, fried and typically served with meat or seafood and a savory sauce. You can enjoy mofongo with green or ripe plantains; the latter is sweeter but we prefer the green one. Try both and be your own judge. Tender roast pork, or pernil, is another island specialty. A side of rice and beans or rice with peas (arroz con gondules) completes any meal.

Orozco: 1126 Ashford Avenue, San Juan, 00907, Puerto Rico (open for breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Memorable Wine Flight at Marmalade Restaurant

The Marmalade restaurant provides the kind of dining experience you’ll remember for a lifetime. As well as creative and delicious food, the wine list is spectacular. Choose a wine pairing on the four, five or six course tasting menus, all of which are excellent value for quality, artistry and pleasure of the meal. Despite the high end of the dining experience, the chef and staff keep the atmosphere friendly and fully unpretentious. In fact, when we visited (on two separate occasions), Chef Peter came out and spoke personally to every table in the house. The Tuscan White Bean Soup, a house specialty, is not to be missed. (Note: If you cannot get into Marmalade, the Inarü restaurant in Old San Juan is another great option.)

Marmalade: 317 Calle Fortaleza, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico

Dance

“La Placita” Hosts San Juan’s Hottest Block Party

Our top recommendation for what to do in San Juan is an excursion to La Placita de Santurce on a Thursday, Friday, or Saturday night. This is where the locals gather to people watch, enjoy cheap drinks, and most significantly, dance salsa. Bars line the streets of the square, which is closed off to traffic by police on party nights. The scene was filled with Puerto Ricans of all ages, showing off their hottest dance moves. You must experience this epic and genuine street party to believe it: it isn’t for tourists. Ask your hotel concierge for directions.

Swim

Safe Swimming in Sheltered Playita Del Condado

While charming, the waves at Condado Beach can be choppy and very dangerous for swimming, and currents can be a problem. For a quieter experience that’s great for snorkelling or floating, head to Playita del Condado, a sheltered swimming cove off Ashford Avenue, at the western end of the Condado resort area. Rent a kayak or paddleboard here and funky off with some refreshing shaved ice from the local street vendors.

Strolling

Bar El Batey in Old San Juan, for Rum and Reflections

For a fast change of pace from the resort district of Condado, take an Uber to Old San Juan. With its sherbert-coloured facades, quaint shops and cafes and cobbled streets, it’s a wanderer’s paradise. Explore the old churches, or catch a street performance in one of the town’s many squares. Stop by a dive bar like El Batey’s, and begin planning your next trip back to the island.

El Batey: 101 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico