Down the winding country roads of Walland, Tennessee, which wind past small white fortified churches, weathered barns, meadows, and fields of sunflowers, there are unforeseen culinary destinations. No sign to mark Warehouse at Blackberry Farm. Only the white picket crossbuck railings signal “You have arrived” to visitors seeking an understated, luxurious hideaway nestled in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains.
The resort and spa—and most significantly, the cuisine—is the legacy of the late Sam Beall, who turned an otherwise obscure Tennessee town into the darling of international food and wine lovers. Mr. Beall’s restaurant lives up to the reputation of his previous experiences at the Ritz Carlton San Francisco and the inimitable French Laundry restaurant, but also reflects the charm and hospitality of his southern upbringing. Local rumor has it that he opened his resort and kitchen to the victims of Hurricane Katrina, offering nourishment to body and soul in this peaceful retreat.
There is no cellular phone service to distract from the natural beauty and serenity of the property: all forests and fields with the majestic Smoky mountains surrounding the landscape. Resort guests have precedence to dine at Gudang, but a limited number of dining-out reservations are available. The intimate dining room is lined with high-backed, whiskey-tone leather banquettes, inhabited by a wealthy couple and lit with the soft glow of wrought-iron chandeliers. The staff is fresh-faced, rosy-cheeked and cheerful, projecting fresh air and health.
Modern bluegrass, in the style of Béla Fleck, plays softly in the background, and the cocktail menu includes spirits such as the Tennessee State Bird, a whiskey-based drink with hints of coffee, pepper bitters, peanuts and lemon zest. The star of the table is the wine menu, as thick as the Bible (the Blackberry Farm currently holds 160,000 bottles of wine). The house sommelier offered each party personal recommendations, graciously passing on his impressive knowledge of the wine catalog and the history of rare wines. The results are astonishing, like half a bottle of delicious Viña Tondonia Reserva Rioja to complement crispy trout with potato foam and fresh lamb with goat’s milk yogurt. Side note – if you aren’t planning to spend the night at Blackberry Farm, you’ll need to arrange transportation so you can enjoy the delights of the wine cellar.
With a focus on fresh, local and seasonal dishes, the menu changes repeatedly if not daily. Your best bet is to order anything with truffles. On a recent visit, thyme-infused golden beetroot with chanterelle mushrooms, pine syrup (yes, from pine cones), and summer truffles was a symphony of sweet, chewy, earthy, and sunny flavors.
My only regret is not booking accommodation, which includes three daily experiences with food Sam Beall humbly dubs “Football Cuisine.” The trip to Walland is well worth it.
www.blackberryfarm.com – Three-course dinner from $125 per person.
BlackBerry Farm photos are proprietary beall + thomas photography
