You’ve heard the saying ‘you are what you eat,’ well now estheticians are touting the incredible anti-aging benefits of cosmeceuticals. Patients are all the time attempting to find cost-effective ways to enhance their appearance and lots of turn to cosmetics to quench their thirst for younger, healthier looking skin.
Photographer: Richard Monsieurs
Hair and make-up: Juliette den Ouden, Visious Hair & Make-up
Assistant: Anouk van Emmerink , Visionous Academy
Styling: Juliette de Ouden, Invisible Hair & Makeup
According to Albert Kligman who coined the term ‘cosmeceutical’ in 1984 to refer to substances that have cosmetic and therapeutic benefits, to be considered a real cosmeceutical, a product must meet three main criteria:
Do active ingredients penetrate the stratum corneum (first layer of skin) and reach their desired targets within the skin at enough concentrations?
Does it have a particular biochemical mechanism of action to target skin cells?
Can the results be replicated in several patients to support claims of efficacy (double-blind, placebo-controlled study)?
Due to the absence of FDA regulation of the cosmeceutical industry, these questions can leave the aesthetic layman confused about what really works and what snake oil is all about. To make sure you are using the correct cosmeceuticals, you need to make sure that the product is clinically tested to validate claims of having benefits for the skin.
Cosmeceuticals are designed based on active ingredients that are considered beneficial for skin health. There are many various conditions that cosmeceuticals claim to improve including increased radiance, better texture and tone, and reduced acne and pigmentation. But do they really work?
Peptide
Peptides, antioxidants, growth factors and stem cells are all examples of cosmetic ingredients. To explain:
Peptides are short chains of amino acids which are the building blocks of collagen protein. There are a wide range of peptides, carriers, signals, enzyme inhibitors, and neurotransmitter peptides, all of which have been shown to be effective for reducing wrinkles and reducing signs of aging when applied topically twice daily. They are included in many anti-aging products for their ability to increase skin elasticity and firmness. To help fight aging, it is vital to combine a peptide cream and a peptide serum to help encourage the skin to rebuild lost collagen.
Antioxidant
Antioxidants are the most popular ingredients in cosmetics because cell oxidation is a major explanation for skin aging. Antioxidants are natural substances consisting of vitamins and minerals which are found in most plants in varying amounts. They can fight “free radicals” that damage the DNA helix. Damaged skin cells can accelerate aging with wrinkles, dry skin, dark circles under the eyes, dull skin, and more. Antioxidants include Carotenoids, Flavonoids and Polyphenols. Antioxidants are useful in two ways: they stop the degradation of natural substances (proteins, sugars, lipids) in cosmetic products, they also protect skin cells from damage and slow down the aging process. Antioxidants have been shown to improve skin radiance, minimizing age spots, sun spots and fine lines.
growth factor
Growth factors are proteins present in our bodies that help regulate cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation. Growth factors play a crucial role in maintaining healthy skin structure and function. They are secreted by all kinds of cells that make up the epidermis (outer layer of skin) and dermis (skin layer between the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue) of skin including keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes. Growth factors stimulate the formation of collagen and elastic fibers which give skin softness and suppleness. They also provide synergistic interactions with other proteins in the epidermis and dermis leading to skin repair and regeneration. (One of my personal favourite ingredients in my beauty regime.)
Stem Cells
Finally, and the most controversial is stem cells. Multicellular organisms (plants, fruits, animals, humans) all have stem cells. They are found throughout our body, where they play a crucial role in tissue renewal. Stem cells in skincare products are mainly obtained from fruits and plants that can be kept fresh for a long time, such as Swiss apples, edelweiss, roses and date palms. These stem cell extracts—not live cells—are added to skincare products. This unique and precise extraction technology causes the price of products containing stem cells to be very expensive. While stem cells are an attractive story, the jury is still out on their topical powers, researchers are still out on whether or not stem cells will improve the appearance of your skin with continued use.
Before buying aa cosmeceuticals ensure they’re medical grade products that have undergone rigorous clinical trials, improper stabilization of any of these products will negate their benefits and waste your money. In essence, be an informed consumer when shopping for cosmetics and watch out to stick with your fruit and vegetables, this will ensure your skin receives the essential minerals and nutrients to keep your cells fresh, young, healthy and glowing.
